Be sure there's no sharp points of wire sticking up before you heat the shrink tubing. It will unravel into a gooey mess on a hot day. I like to push the strands into each other, then I solder them and seal the connection with heat-shrink tubing. Cut that 4" off, then splice on a new piece the same gauge. You'll also see about 4" of those wires are hardened from being overheated. You can use crimp-on terminals but solder them too for a better connection. They can be cut out of the melted plastic body, then new ones can be plugged in individually. Normally there's only two terminals that get overheated. That heat will migrate into the switch and degrade the new contacts. They have lost their tension, and along with the arced areas, that will create resistance which translates to heat when current flows through the connection. Those blackened terminals must be replaced. Happy to hear you found it, but you need to go further. Trunk and under-hood bulbs draw more than half an amp, (500 ma), so bulbs are not likely suspects in this case.ĭandy. The clock will turn on for a few seconds when you press the volume knob, but if it stays on it will kill the battery in a few days. One of the more common causes on GM products is the radio display failing to turn off. If this is the last fuse, you'll only have a few things to look at. Once you identify the fuse for the offending circuit, narrow it down by looking for smaller fuses it feeds and test each of those circuits. That's where many people become confused. What this boils down to is you can remove a fuse to verify that's the circuit that makes the current draw go away, but it's hard to double-check by putting the fuse back in. If the reading is still low, connect the jumper again, then switch back to the lower scale. Doing it in that order will avoid blowing the meter's 2 amp fuse if you woke up a computer on that circuit. Once you narrow down the excessive current by removing a fuse, you'll want to reconnect the jumper across the meter, switch back to a higher range, THEN reinstall that fuse, remove the jumper, and observe the reading. That will prevent a computer from waking up. You need to use a jumper wire to short out the meter while you change the range. You start out on a high current range to avoid blowing its internal fuse, then, to get more accuracy, you must switch to a lower range. Switching ranges momentarily opens the circuit, and a computer will respond to that by waking up again and drawing that high current. Second, all volt / ohm / amp meters use "break-before-make" range switches and you may have to move the positive test lead to a different jack for some of the current ranges, (particularly the 10 amp scale). You have to do any current testing after that has occurred. Until then they can draw over three amps. First of all, some of them have to time out and go to "sleep mode" after as much as 20 minutes. There's a couple of problems though with measuring current drain on cars with computers. Cadillac is one notable exception due to the insane need to hang a computer onto every conceivable part of the car that never needed a computer before. Unless specified differently by the manufacturer, that is pretty much the industry standard. Chrysler says that with 35 ma, the battery will start the engine after sitting for three weeks. I'm not sure where or how you're checking, but yes, 0.156 amps is 156 milliamps, and that's too much.
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